A Unique Bed & Breakfast In the Heart of San Antonio's Historic District
The occasion of my trip down to San Antonio this Friday was that Guy Blair was in town from Green Bay, officiating at the anniversary of two of his former parishoners and the renewal of their wedding vows. This is the second or third time that the parish has brought Guy down here for special events; they grew quite attached to him in the years he was here in San Antonio.
Friday, February 16th
The big event going on at Ruckman Haus, as I found out, was that they have begun construction on their new apartment. Since Prudence and Ron began the B&B four years ago, they have been living in the basement of the main house. This has never been satisfactory, but they have put up with it so that all the rooms could be free for guests. While they had enough space for their bedroom and stuff down there, it has always been an unattractive solution to the problem of where the B&B hosts live.
In the last few months, Prudence and Ron have been bouncing ideas off anyone who will listen as to how the new apartment should be designed and laid out. All the plans call for the current garage to be demolished and a new garage built with their apartments above it. They will have a living room, bedroom and bath, kitchen and a small guest suite. Their plans call for an outside stairway at the end of the building.
I have always thought it would be neat to have a covered or enclosed walkway from the main house over to the apartment so that they would never have to be out in inclement weather running back and forth, but my ideas involved extra expense and a lot of design modifications, so I am pretty sure they've decided against it.
Anyway, this afternoon the construction crew is hard at work demolishing the existing garage. The work has been going on for three days already, but I have taken the first pictures of the work in progress. Below are four thumbnails that you can click on to see four full-sized views of the demolition progress:
Guy was busy with his anniversary couple, and so could not join us for dinner. Carolyn Shofner did join us, and we went to Tomatillo's for Mexican fare. We met up with Guy back at Ruckman Haus later in the evening, had some good conversation and then he and I drove over to the Best Western.
Saturday, February 17th
Guy went with the couple to a dinner celebration in their honor, so the rest of us- Ron, Prudence, Carolyn, her husband Michael and I- went to a casual place over near King William for dinner.
By the time we got back to the B&B, it was time to go pick up Guy at the church. He and I shared the French Room together for the next two nights.
Sunday, February 18th
There is no commercial development at this south end of the river system- no hotels, no restaurants and no people. This is the actual
San Antonio River,
close to what it must have looked like before the city grew up around it. Now, of course, there are flood walls to channel it and bridges across it and parks along it but not much water flowing through it. There is a dam upstream from here that ensures there will be sufficient water in the downtown, commercial portion of the river system.
As we were coming down the access walk from the car to the river, I asked
Guy, Carolyn and Maggie
to sit on a bench and pose for a picture. When we got down alongside the river, I asked
the whole group
to pause so I could record the beginning of our trek. As we started off, you could look ahead and see that the sidewalk pretty much paralleled the river
all the way to downtown
where we'll pick up the San Antonio Riverwalk.
Just under the Durango Street bridge we passed the studios of KWEX TV on our right, where I got an interesting, artistic view of the
KWEX broadcast tower
.
I've learned that the Riverwalk System is occasionally drained and cleaned; otherwise, stuff that people may accidentally drop into the river (or intentionally discard) as well as sediment that enters the system naturally would affect the navigability or the aesthetics of the Riverwalk System. And since so much commerce depends on its visitors, that can't be allowed to happen. When the Riverwalk System is drained, there are special tours you can take to inspect the engineering that keeps the system functioning.
Before we left this area and headed into the commercial part of the Riverwalk, I filmed a movie of the dam operation that you can watch with the player below:
As indicated on the map, we walked around the southern, eastern and northern sides of the central circle. On the south side of the circle, we passed the
Homewood Suites and Westin hotels
that were across the canal from us, and shortly after passed under
a spiral staircase
that led to one of the surface streets above us.
One of the newest hotels on the Riverwalk is
the Westin Hotel,
and they have done a very nice job on a small garden area at river level outside the hotel. It was planted with impatiens, and even in February they were doing nicely. Hotels like this one have their main entrances on street level, of course, on the other side of the building, but they tend to put much more effort into designing and decorating the side of the hotel that faces the Riverwalk, as it will be seen by vastly more people.
We passed by the La Villita area, where we had to temporarily go up to street level because of some construction along the river, and we came back down to the Riverwalk through the Ameson River Theatre- an amphitheatre built into the side of the river and used mostly for music or singing performance during major festivals. There were quite a few people just sitting in the terraced theatre having lunch or relaxing when we brought the dogs through and down one of the aisles back to the Riverwalk. At the southeast corner of the central circle, we turn to the north in front of the
Hilton Palacio del Rio
hotel.
Walking north along the River, now, we discovered that there were a number of early Mardi Gras celebrations going on, and that many of the tour barges had been given over to the celebration. Many of them had been decorated or turned into the aquatic equivalent of
Mardi Gras parade floats,
complete with costumed characters throwing strings of beads to passersby, just like Mardi Gras parades in cities like New Orleans. The celebration had brought more people than usual down to the Riverwalk, and you can view some movies of these "floats" using the players below:
This portion of the Riverwalk, including the north side as well, is lined by restaurants and hotels and is usually very busy. Here is a
typical restaurant and a tour boat
passing by it. While many of the restaurants are Tex-Mex, there are also other cuisines, so there is always a good place to try. Many of the restaurants are two-storey so that they can be entered at street level as well. And many of them are like this one, with seating right along the river. The only drawback to doing that is that you have a continuous stream of people going right by your table, as the walkways go right through these al fresco dining areas. But that's part of the fun.
We crossed over an arched bridge at the junction with the canal to the Mall, and continued north, turning back west just past the Hyatt Hotel. Here is a
typical Riverwalk scene
near the La Mansion Del Rio Hotel.
This portion of the Riverwalk has some different decoration than the other parts. These are mosaics that are set into the walls next to the walkways, typically at or near the bridges that carry the various streets over the river. There were quite a few different ones, so I've chosen a couple of the best ones to show you. They were located at Point 3 on the map, and you can look at them
here
and
here.
At Point 4 on the map, where the river makes a sharp curve, they have built a fountain and some steps and seats. There wasn't much water in the fountain; perhaps it isn't finished or wasn't turned on, but it was a very pleasant place to stop and rest nevertheless. We took two pictures here; I took one of
Guy at the fountain,
and he returned the favor and took
one of me.
As we were heading south, and just a bit further on, I came to the Bank of America tower (Point 6 on the map), and it had a
really nice waterfall
on the river side of its building. I'm sure that at lunchtime this area is filled with office workers; I know it would be a favorite spot of mine, if I worked anywhere around.
For the rest of our walk, we just continued south along the west side of the Riverwalk, and crossed back over to the east side, where we'd left the car, just below the central area. It was a really great walk, and I am sure that Max and Cassie (and Maggie, too) enjoyed it as well.
Sunday Dinner at the Palm Restaurant
Everybody enjoyed what they had gotten, and Ron ordered all the side dishes (each of which comes separately); they were all very good. Prudence and Guy and Carolyn liked the wine they had chosen, and the meal was a great success.
Before we left for the restaurant, Guy had taken me aside up in our room to talk about how things were going for him in Green Bay, and he told me what I already knew- that he really wasn't happy doing what he was doing. He was worrying overmuch about a lot of things, not able to concentrate or sleep well, and in general really down about everything. His blue mood was also affecting him physically, and he wanted to let me know that he might not feel up to coming down to Florida next week.
Of course I know that Guy has been through a lot lately. The move from San Antonio to Green Bay was not what he wanted. The church in Green Bay is old, losing members and having a lot of difficulties. On the personal side, Guy's mom is quite ill and the relationship between his parents is also not good at all. All these things would conspire to make anyone feel really "down," but I did tell Guy that I was sure some time away from everything in Florida might work wonders. But he'll take the next week to see how things go, and we'll talk again this coming weekend.
I took Guy to the airport early on Monday morning for his flight home, came back to the B&B and went right back to bed for a while. When I got up again, Ron had done another nice breakfast for his guests, so he and Prudence and I ate some after they were all finished.
Ron took me to the airport after he'd finished clearing things away; I thanked him and Prudence for a particularly nice visit, and hopped a Southwest flight home.
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Ron and Prudence Ruckman
stay@ruckmanhaus.com |