November 8, 2014: A Bus Tour Around Quito, Ecuador | |
November 6, 2014: Traveling from Dallas to Quito, Ecuador | |
Return to the Index for Our Stay in Quito |
Today, Fred and I are going to do some walking around Quito; Greg and Yoost won't arrive until about 9PM tonight, so we are on our own. We will also be moving from the Holiday Inn Express to the J.W. Marriott a block down the street; it is the hotel that the cruise has booked for us. On this page, we'll also take a look at our accommodations at the Holiday Inn.
The Holiday Inn Express Quito
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The next morning, we went down to the lobby and found the restaurant/dining room off the lobby. We had a nice breakfast; there was quite a lot to choose from before we went back upstairs to take some pictures of the room and the views from the windows.
I had arranged for a late checkout, since we couldn't check in at the Marriott until mid-afternoon.
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We had great views from our windows, which faced south towards the main part of Quito. You can click on the thumbnail images below to see a couple of those views:
Quito is Ecuador's capital city, and sits at an elevation of 9,350 feet; it is the highest official capital city in the world.[1] It is located on the eastern slopes of Pichincha, an active stratovolcano in the Andes mountains. From our window, Fred, with his zoom lens, could get an excellent view of Pichincha, which was, at the moment, snow-covered. With 2.5 million people, Quito is the country's second most populous city in Ecuador, after Guayaquil. In 2008, the city was designated as the headquarters of the Union of South American Nations.
The city of Quito has one of the largest, least-altered and best-preserved historic centers in the Americas and was, along with Kraków, Poland, was the first World Cultural Heritage Site declared by UNESCO in 1978. The central square of Quito is located about 16 miles south of the equator; the city itself extends to a point a half mile south of the equator. There is a monument and park at the equator itself, and that is to be one of the stops on tomorrow's bus tour.
The views were so good from our room that I took a series of three pictures, stitching them together into one panoramic view:
Our Walk Around Quito
Avenue Francisco de Orellana to the Pan American Highway (1)
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We continued up the street, passing a new office tower and, apparently, an armored car making a delivery to a bank. One thing we did notice in Quito and elsewhere in Ecuador and Peru was the profusion of private security at all kinds of places- hotels, banks, some office buildings, and so on. It wasn't an oppressive display; not like you might envision in a country that had just gone through a coup or something, but rather a certain overabundance of caution. It is one thing to see guards inside and outside banks; it is quite another to see the same thing at a car dealership.
As we crossed Avenue 9th of October (named for the independence movement that began on that date when Guayaquil and Quito declared their independence from Spain and joined forces with Simon Bolivar and Joseph San Martin), I stopped in the middle of the intersection to get a picture of the avenue looking southwest towards the center of Quito.
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We continued up Avenue Orellana until it ended at the Pan American Highway- yes, the same one you've heard about- which is, as it goes through Quito, one of the city's main streets. Along the way, both of us snapped photos of typical street scenes and other interesting things. You can click on the thumbnail images below to see a selection of our pictures from Avenue Orellana:
The Pan American Highway to Avenida Patria (2)
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As we walked along the Pan Am Highway, there were opportunities for candid pictures of interesting sights along the way (including the biggest KFC restaurant I've ever seen; we came to find out that fried chicken is very popular in Ecuador and that there are four or five chains that specialize in that delicacy. These are just typical or odd street scenes, and you can click on the thumbnail images below to have a look at them:
One interesting thing was the way they did their bike lanes. The two lanes, instead of being on opposite sides of the street, were together on the same side, and they were separated from the auto lanes by raised metal guards; someone would have to be totally asleep at the wheel to wander into the bike lane, and I imagine they would damage tires and wheels as well. Click on the thumbnail images below for some more street scenes along the PanAm Highway:
There were a couple of interesting places along the avenue that we stopped at. One was a small park in front of what appeared to be some sort of cultural building.
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It was an important political and cultural center of prominent figures on the right and the Ecuadorian Catholic Church, and when it was built, it was in an important residential area for the wealthy families of Quito, who had left the Historic Center. Most of these mansions have been torn down; the Circassian and neighboring Najas Palace, home of the Foreign Ministry, are the best surviving examples of monumental architecture of the Quito aristocracy of the early twentieth century. Click on the thumbnail images below to see some other views of the palace:
Today, the Palace, set in an area of cedars, palms and Norfolk Island pines, is the national headquarters of the Institute of Cultural Heritage of Ecuador and the Historical Archives of the City of Quito.
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It was a neat little park, and we enjoyed walking around a bit before continuing on down the Avenue 10 August (another name for the Pan American highway through Quito, given to commemorate the beginning of the Quito independence movement in 1809). After just a block, we came to a most unusual fountain.
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The fountain's sculptures were interesting enough that in addition to the picture Fred took (at right), I took another picture of it from a different angle. You can see that picture here.
There was one other stop we made on our way down Avenue 10 August to the big park at Avenue Patria- a small park named for General Julio Andrade.
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General Julio Andrade |
On the night of March 5, 1912, a demonstration occurred at police headquarters in Quito; citizens supporting the Liberal cause clashed with supporters of the Catholic conservatives. As Andrade tried to control the situation, someone, it is not known exactly who, shot him and he was killed. As professor and journalist Carlos de la Torre Reyes put it at the 100th anniversary commemoration of Andrade's death, it was at that moment the light of 'the sword without blemish' died.
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The other important site in the park is a set of five sculptures of key players in the Revolution of the early 1900s, when much of the liberal character of the city of Quito and the country of Ecuador was established. From its independence until then, Ecuador was very Catholic and very conservative, and the alliance of clergy and the wealthy controlled every aspect of national life. The restrictions and imbalances of that period finally became too oppressive for the people; the Revolution swept away the control the two institutions had over the general population. The church retreated to its proper spiritual realm, while the power and influence of the wealthy were severely curtailed.
We enjoyed the small green space for a bit before heading on in towards the center of Historic Quito. As we left the park, I snapped a picture of a small boy in the park with his mother.
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To see some addition street scenes that we photographed as we walked along Pan Am Highway, just click on the thumbnail images below:
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Eventually, we reached Avenue Patria and the north corner of Parque El Ejido.
Avenida Patria/Parque El Ejido to Basilica del Voto Nacional (3)
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Then we entered the pleasant, tree-filled Parque El Ejido, which is the biggest park in downtown Quito. It's a popular spot for impromptu games of soccer and volleyball. The north end of the park teems with activity on weekends, when open-air art shows are held along Avenida Patria. Just inside the north end of the park, artisans and crafts vendors set up stalls and turn the sidewalks into Quito's largest handicrafts market.
You can see some views of the park if you will click on the thumbnail images below:
El Ejido is very busy, especially for the large number of offices around it. There are lots of street performers around the park, and the park also hosts groups of senior citizens playing the traditional game of Quito- coconuts. (I'd tell you what it was, but we did not see anyone playing.) We wandered through the park for a little while, and then continued southwest along Avenue 10 August. All the way along, off to our right, all the side streets led right up the side of the mountains surrounding Quito.
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Halfway up the plaza, there was a large granite boulder. When we got close to it, we found that there was a plaque on the front, indicating that it was dedicated to Mahatma Gandhi. It wasn't until we got above it and looked down that we could see that there had been something affixed to the top of it. I have done some investigation, and you can see what it used to look like if you click here. Where the bust was on the day we visited I have no idea.
I think there are a couple of fountains here, but they were not on. At the base of the boulder were a number of circular marble plates, and on each was inscribed something that Gandhi said or something about him. You can see one of them here. Across the street at the top of the plaza was the Colegio Nacional Femenino- the National Women's College. We took some other pictures up and down the plaza, and you can click on the thumbnail images below to have a look at them:
We walked a bit further up Avenue 10 August and then turned right to walk up Arenas street. This brought us onto Avenue Luis Torres, just opposite the Instituto Nacional Mejia- a public secondary educational institution founded on June 5, 1897. From the description of it online, we would probably call it a large magnet school. We walked southwest along Avenue Torres to reach the Basilica del Voto Nacional.
The Basilica del Voto Nacional (4)
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When we walked up to the Basilica, we looked back to get a view down the hill across the park. Click on the thumbnail images below for some additional views of the Basilica as seen from the park:
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From the top of the park, we walked around to Calle Carchi, the steep street west of the Basilica, and walked up that street to the gates that would take us to the plaza in front of the main entrance to the Basilica. We supposed that this Basilica would be on our bus tour tomorrow, so for today, we did not go inside the nave, but rather explored the outside of the Basilica and climbed the towers.
The Plaza Around the Basilica del Voto Nacional
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The basilica arose from the idea, proposed by father Julio Matovelle in 1883, of building a monument as a perpetual reminder of the consecration of Ecuador to the Sacred Heart. President Luis Cordero issued a decree that year for the building of the church, and 1000 pesos per month were allocated to the project. The local provincial council turned the construction into a religious commitment in the name of Ecuador. The Oblato fathers donated the land and, with the approval of Pope Leo XIII, construction began in 1887. Eventually, donations from believers were accepted for the project, while the state established a tax on salt to continue the building.
The first stone was not placed until 1892, however, and construction was completed on the main cathedral in 1909. Work continued for decades on ancillary structures and the towers. It was not until 1985 that the basilica was blessed by Pope John Paul II; it was consecrated and inaugurated on July 12, 1988. The basilica remains technically "unfinished"; local legend says that when the Basílica is completed, the end of the world will come.
The Basilica Facade
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In the center of the facade, between the center doors and about fifteen feet off the ground, there is a statue of Pope John Paul II, commemorating his blessing of the basilica.
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When Fred walked up the couple of steps to the doors, and went in to the overhang before the actual doors themselve, he could see that there was a window through which he could see some of the stained glass inside. He took a picture looking through that window, and you can see that interesting picture here.
We found that the plaza continued around the north side of the basilica, so we walked around there to see more of the outside of the structure and so I could climb the hillside stairs.
The Hillside Staircase
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I have also marked the plaza from which we took the pictures of the main facade of the church. As we tour the church, we will go up in two towers; both offered great views of the surrounding city and countryside, although the one at the right allowed me to go up further and get into the room behind the clock face and then to a point even above that.
Northwest of the building, fifty feet across the plaza, there is a steep hillside (which you can't really see in this view) and the stairs that we climbed are in that hillside. Finally, also in the plaza to the northwest of the building, is one of the entrances to the National Pantheon, where the remains of many of Ecuador's notables are buried.
So we walked around to the northwest of the building to see the stairs, which looked quite amazing from the level of the plaza.
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The stairs were just opposite the left side bell tower, and as you ascend the stairs, the view gets better and better. I took a number of pictures from the top of the stairs, including a good one of the plaza from which we had photographed the facade. You can click on the thumbnail images below to see some of the other pictures I took from the top of the hill:
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I also made a movie from the top of the stairs, you can use the player below to watch it:
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The stairs were fun; before heading inside the bell towers, we walked around the building looking at its outside decoration.
Outside Decoration
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From the plaza, we went into the left-hand tower to see whether we could go up in one or the other of them.
In the Northwest Tower
There was also a great view of the hillside stairs from up here; you can see the top of them in the panoramic view above, but that last picture will give you a better view.
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I tried my hand at zooming in on the hill in the distance because I could see a statue on top of it. Fred, of course, was able to zoom in very clearly on the statue. I thought it was a statue of Christ, but it turned out to be sort of a winged angel (although I don't know the significance of the halo).
For this direction, I put four pictures together into a panorama, and you can have a look at it below:
Crossing to the Southeast Tower
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If I neglected to say earlier, this church was actually built in the early twentieth century, which explains the modern construction techniques that you can see in both pictures- including the metal support for the outer roof. I had never seen a space like this before; it was immensely interesting.
We found that the southeast tower had a lot more to see and do.
Views of the Transcept Spire
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The views of the transcept spire from here in the southeast tower were beautiful, and it was hard to limit ourselves to just a few pictures. Click on the thumbnail images below for some more excellent views looking towards the spire over the roof of the basilica:
You probably cannot see them in any of the pictures, but if you look closely, as Fred did with his zoom lens, you can see people in the transcept spire; they get there by crossing the walkway you saw earlier atop the vault of the nave. And while we were standing at this particular spot, we could look down along the southeast side of the basilica and see clearly the set of flying buttresses, another gothic construction element; they provided support for the walls of the church to keep them from crumbling outward under the weight of the roof above. (Today, we do the same thing with structural steel or pre-stressed concrete with reinforcing bars.) We could also see Parque Moreno across the street.
While we were here looking east along the side of the church, both Fred and I happened to take a series of pictures that could be put together into a panoramic view. I thought you might want to see them. Here is mine:
And here is Fred's:
We found some stairs that went higher in the southeast tower; Fred did not want to climb them so I left him for a bit to see what I could see.
Climbing the Southeast Tower
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I have to admit that I was getting a bit nervous; I knew the building was built in the 1920s, not the 1420s, so I assumed it was structurally sound; after all, there were people above me and the basilica has had people climbing the towers for many decades. So was a collapse imminent; I guessed not, but I was still a bit nervous nevertheless.
Finally, the stairs ended on an open platform almost at the top of the tower; only the topmost pinnacle was above us.
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Since I'd climbed all the way up here, I did stay a few minutes and take some pictures from various directions. In the picture looking back at the transcept spire, you can see how far up I have come. And in the picture I took of the northwest tower, you can see the intricate decoration that is all over the basilica. To see these and a couple of other pictures, just click on the thumbnail images below:
Climbing up the tower was really neat, but I went back down to rejoin Fred and together we descended the elevator back to ground level. Our visit to the Basilica Nacional was complete, save for one more picture Fred took of some gargoyles (well, not gargoyles, actually but, for some reason, alligators).
Walking Back to the Holiday Inn (5)
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As we passed along the east side of the park, Fred saw an interesting statue and snapped a picture of it. In creating this page, I had to go look up the subject of the monument- Sandor Petofi (1823-1849). I thought he might be someone important in Ecuadorian history, but in actuality he was a Hungarian poet and liberal revolutionary. He is considered Hungary's national poet, and was one of the key figures of the Hungarian Revolution of 1848. He is the author of the Nemzeti dal (National Song), which is said to have inspired that revolution that grew into a war for independence from the Austrian Empire. It is most likely that he died in the Battle of Segesvar, one of the last battles of the war.
Along the way, we took the occasional odd picture of a street scene, something humorous or something interesting. You can have a look at these pictures by clicking on the thumbnail images below:
Back at the Holiday Inn, we checked out and schlepped our bags down a block and across the Avenida Orellana to the J.W. Marriott, where we found that our room had already been assigned by the cruise line. We went up to it and settled in. You'll have a chance to see more of the Marriott two pages hence, on the day we departed for the Galapagos. There wasn't a lot else going on that day save for our travel out to the Islands, so it will be a good page for the Marriott pictures.
An Afternoon Walk and Dinner
Dinner at Fried Bananas Restaurant
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Fried Bananas turned out to be a very small, family-operated restaurant. The hostess was quite nice and we had a nice table by the window- on of only six or seven in the little restaurant. We had a cold avocado soup as a starter, and it was quite good. Then we each had plates of typical Ecuadorian fare. All of it was very good, and quite reasonable. They even brought me ice for my water.
Parroquia de Santa Teresita Church
This area of Quito is very popular with tourists- the most popular area outside the old city itself. In the early 20th century, the area was full of the homes of wealthy families; the first businesses did not start appearing until the 1940s. Now, it is an area more commercial than residential, and has hotels, inns, restaurants, souvenir shops and clothing, crafts and cafes. It also has quite the nighlife due to the high concentration of nightclubs, bars, pubs and other entertainment venues.
There are a number of churches in this parish, and the largest is the one we visited after dinner- the church of Saint Theresa (Parroquia de Santa Teresita).
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We eventually left the church, intending to walk around the area and see what we could see. We planned on doing this until it got dark or until 9PM or so, at which point we would return to the Marriott to meet Greg and Yoost.
The Area of Mariscal Sucre
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As we walked around, we always had a view of the mountains that surround Quito. Late this afternoon, clouds were moving in, and sometimes the mountaintops disappeared into them. Of course, many of the pictures we took were just street scenes, as we tried to capture some of the flavor of the city. Pictures of some of these residences, and of street scenes have been put into a slideshow.
To view the slideshow, just click on the image at left and I will open the slideshow in a new window. In the slideshow, you can use the little arrows in the lower corners of each image to move from one to the next, and the index numbers in the upper left of each image will tell you where you are in the series. When you are finished looking at the pictures, just close the popup window.
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Recalling what Fred had said when we passed the "Salsa School," I at first thought that the couple might just be practicing their moves, but quickly concluded that this would be a crazy way to do it. I figured it out just as the couple stopped dancing just before the traffic light changed and the young man took off his hat and went to the stopped cars asking for donations (which he got, by the way).
This was certainly a novel way to do street performing and earn a few bucks- novel, but not unique, as we were to discover later on in Lima, Peru.
We went back to the hotel as it was getting dark, and waited for Greg and Yoost to arrive- which they did about 10PM.
You can use the links below to continue to another photo album page.
November 8, 2014: A Bus Tour Around Quito, Ecuador | |
November 6, 2014: Traveling from Dallas to Quito, Ecuador | |
Return to the Index for Our Stay in Quito |