September 21, 2013: Liverpool, England to Dublin, Ireland | |
September 19, 2013: Aberdeen to Carlisle, Scotland | |
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We are going to spend most of today right here in Carlisle, walking through town and touring the Carlisle Cathedral and Castle. Later this afternoon, we'll be driving to spend the night in Liverpool.
Walking to Carlisle Cathedral
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Presently, we came to the Carlisle Cathedral, so we detoured into its grounds to see the cathedral itself and the other old buildings in the complex. Leaving there, we continued northwest towards Carlisle Castle. We passed the Carlisle Museum, went through a tunnel under the major street in front of the Castle, and then headed into the Castle itself for an extended look around. Following our tour of the Castle, Nancy, Prudence, Ron Ruckman, Guy and Fred went to go through the Carlisle museum, while Karl and I waited in the museum cafe for them. Finally, we headed back to the Langleigh, and I made my detour somewhat south to see two round buildings that had been former gaols before I rejoined everyone at the guest house for our departure.
In this section, I'll put the description of our walk and include the pictures we took along it. The Cathedral, Castle and Museum will get their own sections below.
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Eventually, we came to a wide street running north-south that was closed to autos; it was a fairly large pedestrian mall.
In the Center of Carlisle |
We walked north through the mall until it got to a place where it opened up. In the center of this area we found a city building/tourist center and there was a monument column in the center of the large open space. Fred took closeups of the column and of the clock atop the civic building.
We left the plaza to the northwest, went past the Crown and Mitre Hotel and arrived at the entrance to Carlisle Cathedral.
The Carlisle Cathedral
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As we came in alongside the cathedral, we were quite close to it, making a picture of the entire building impossible. Nor could I get back far enough into the plaza to both see all of the building from its southern view and get all of it in one shot. So I did the next best thing. I took three pictures and put them together. But because I couldn't use the same vantage point for all three shots, when I put them together I couldn't straighten the perspective; that's why the nave roof looks curved in the picture at left.
If you are curious, there are clickable thumbnails below for the three individual pictures:
Walking along the south side of the imposing building, I got a better shot of the tower, which is 110 feet high. At some point after the original construction, it blew down, and was rebuilt about 1420. As we moved back towards the main church entrance, I got a nice picture of Fred, Prudence and Nancy with the entrance in the background.
Carlisle Cathedral |
Carlisle Cathedral was begun in 1122, during the reign of King Henry I, as a community of Canons Regular. Although many large churches of Augustinian foundation were built in England during this period, the Archbishop of Canterbury William de Corbeil, being a member of this order, Carlisle is one of only four Augustinian churches in England to become a cathedral, most monastic cathedrals being Benedictine.
The church was begun by Athelwold, an Englishman, who became the first prior. In 1133, the church was raised to the status of cathedral and Athelwold became the first Bishop of Carlisle. In 1233, a Dominican and a Franciscan friary joined the Augustinians, and the building was refurbished in the 13th and 14th centuries, receiving impetus from the presence of the court of Edward I in 1307.
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Carlisle Cathedral was first constructed in the Norman architectural style with solid masonry, large round piers, round arches and smallish round headed windows- features that can still be seen in the south transept and two bays of the nave. It was built out of local red sandstone, which has discoloured almost to black on parts of the exterior. The building has also suffered from subsidence which is evidenced by the piers, which lean at different angles, and by stonework arches that have sagged.
While outside, we took some additional pictures worth including here, and below are some clickable thumbnails you can use to have a look at them:
We found the main cathedral entrance and went inside to have a look around. In the 13th century, the choir of the cathedral was rebuilt in the Gothic style, and by 1322 the arcades and the easternmost bay were complete, with the elaborate tracery and glass of the east window being in place by about 1350. The upper stages of the walls were finished, as was the Gothic arcade. The arcade has richly moulded arches with dog's tooth decoration, and the twelve capitals are carved with vegetation along with small lively figures representing the labours of the months.
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The most significant architectural feature of Carlisle Cathedral is its East Window. The tracery of this window is in the most complex of English Gothic styles, Flowing Decorated Gothic.
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In addition to the East Window, there were four other major stained glass windows in the Carlisle Cathedral, and between the five of us taking photographs, we got pictures of each of them. You can use the clickable thumbnails below to have a look:
Stained Glass Windows in Carlisle Cathedral |
Although the roof of the nave looks quite plain from the outside, inside, looking up at it, we could see an entirely different aspect.
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I had to lay down on the floor to steady my camera to get a view looking straight up at the vault, but Fred outdid that by using his zoom at three different settings to get even better views. Click on the thumbnails below to see three different pictures he got of the amazing ceiling:
When it was completed, the cathedral was 239 feet long and 141 feet wide, with an interior height of 72 feet. It was as impressive inside as any of the churches that we have seen so far on our trip.
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The "Chapter" was the name used of the whole community gathered together, and a "Chapter House" was a building used for these meetings. Here the community met daily to deal with the practical aspects of their lives. The prior who ruled over them gave instruction concerning the Rule, and dealt with matters of business and discipline. Work and worship duties were also assigned. The life of the priory continued until 1540 when the monastery was dissolved.
Today the Chapter consists of the dean, four residentiary canons and the three lay members. together they constitute the cathedral's governing body. They now hold their meetings in the Prior's Tower.
The Chapter House, with other parts of the priory, was destroyed during the Commonwealth period (1649-1660). There are ruins here of two sides of the walls of the House, and you can see two more pictures of them here and here.
Another old building that is part of the cathedral complex is a building called the "fratry."
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The canons got up at midnight and processed into the cathedral for Matins, the long first service of the day, returning to bed until dawn. Worship in the cathedral church took up a large part of their day, together with reading and manual tasks.
Also near this spot was the Infirmary, where the sick and elderly canons were cared for. Many of the medicines were prepared by the canons from plants, some of which they grew themselves. Every seven weeks the canons were bled in the Infirmary. This was believed to be good for their health. Spiritual health and healing remain a concern at the cathedral in modern times.
Another building of interest in the precinct is the Gatehouse that dates to 1527. There is also a building called the Deanery which incorporates a 15th‑century pele tower, called The Prior's Tower, containing a fine contemporary painted ceiling.
When we were done inside the cathedral, we wandered around the area for a while, looking at the old and newer buildings and taking a few candid shots. Fred got a particularly nice one of the rest of us in front of the cathedral, and Nancy got what I thought was a nice picture of Prudence and Fred. Below are clickable thumbnails for a few more of our candid shots from Carlisle Cathedral:
Walking to Carlisle Castle
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The Romans introduced new plants which have since become naturalized. Remains of plants, such as coriander, have been found during excavations in the city. figs would have been imported in dried form. Other plants, such as acanthus, inspired decorative motifs on lamps and buildings. The stone capital in the Border Gallery of the museum, features acanthus leaves in its design.
Below are clickable thumbnails for some of our views of the Roman Garden:
Views in Roman Garden, Carlisle, England |
At the end of the garden, we went through an archway to Castle Street and turned left to walk towards the Castle itself. Along the sidewalk, there were inlaid panels marking historical events, and when we got to the corner by the Tullie House Museum, the lnlays marked the boundaries of the old Roman fortification- now underground. Just by the entrance to the museum there was an interesting inlaid mosaic.
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Carlisle Castle
A Panoramic View of the Front of Carlisle Castle |
Pretty impressive. Carlisle Castle is situated near the ruins of Hadrian's Wall. The castle is over 900 years old and has been the scene of many historical episodes in British history. Given the proximity of Carlisle to the border between England and Scotland, it has been the center of many wars and invasions. Until recently, the Castle was the administrative headquarters of the former King's Own Royal Border Regiment; it is now county headquarters to the Duke of Lancaster's Regiment and a museum to the regiment is within the castle walls.
Carlisle Castle (Panorama from the City) |
In just a few minutes, we'll enter the castle and begin our tour, but first, a bit of history:
Carlisle Castle was first built during the reign of William II of England, the son of William the Conqueror who invaded England in 1066. When William II arrived, he drove the Scots out to claim the area for England, and then ordered the construction of a castle on the site of an old Roman fort. Construction began in 1093; the purpose of the castle would be to secure England's northern border against Scotland. In 1122, Henry I ordered fortifications; a keep keep and city walls were constructed. The existing Keep dates from somewhere between 1122 and 1135.
The castle (and Carlisle) changed hands many times over the next 700 years. In the 13th century, the Scottish King, David, captured the city, and it was he who completed the walls and stone keep. The English reclaimed the castle some years later. From the mid-13th century until the unification of England and Scotland in 1603, Carlisle castle was the vital headquarters of the Western March, a buffer zone to protect the western portion of the Anglo-Scottish border.
Henry VIII converted the castle for artillery. For a few months in 1568, Mary, Queen of Scots was imprisoned within the castle, in the southeast corner which has since been demolished. Later, the castle was besieged by the Parliamentary forces for eight months in 1644, during the English Civil War.
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As we tour the Castle, you can refer to the diagram at right to see where we are in the complex; I'll key the sections of pictures to the numbered legend.
The Outer Gatehouse (1)
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As we headed up the walkway to the Outer Gatehouse, we crossed over what appears to have been, at one time, a moat, although on looking at the picture now, it seems that the shallow, narrow depression would not have been wide or deep enough to serve as any sort of defense, so we now assume that it was added for effect. Investigation reveals that no reliable sketches or images from the time when the castle was in active use exist that would reveal whether a moat ever existed.
I need to return to the outside of the castle in a minute, but first I want to include some additional pictures of the Outer Gatehouse that we took after we had passed through the entrance.
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From over near the Half-Moon Battery (see below), Guy took another good picture of the gatehouse, and you can see it here.
The Curtain Wall and Lady's Walk (8)
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When imprisoned in the castle, Mary Queen of Scots promenaded just outside the walls under the watchful eyes of her jailers. The route is still known today as "the Lady's Walk."
The Half-Moon Battery (2)
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The Half-Moon Battery was built in 1542. It is built of sandstone, is a single storey high and in a half moon shape. It had a double row of guns; at ground level cannons could fire across the outer bailey, while below a number of square openings allowed defenders to fire on assailants attempting to cross the ditch. It was built to provide extra protection to the approaches to the inner ward of the castle. It was originally next to a moat, but when it was no longer required the moat was completely filled in 1827. Today, only the lower part of the battery now remains.
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I went down those steps and through a semi-circular tunnel, expecting to get to a point where I could look out the firing windows, but somehow I missed it, at the end of the tunnel coming again to a set of steps leading back up to ground level. From that ground level, Fred got a nice picture looking back towards the entrance to the castle- and you can see the place where the moat was and where our walkway from the entrance led over it. You can see that picture here.
The Captain's Tower (3)
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Coming in through that archway brought us into the inner ward of the castle (the area within the inner walls). We headed up the stairs to the top of the wall next to the Tower to have a look. (You can see a view looking back down the stairs here.) From the wall, we got a good view looking back down at the Outer Gatehouse.
Underneath the walls by the Tower there were arched rooms whose use four hundred years ago is unknown but which today, as you can see, contain exhibits, vehicles and storage. Below are clickable thumbnails for some other views of and from the Captain's Tower:
Since we were up here on the wall already, it seemed to be a good time to walk entirely around them.
The Castle Walls (5)
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The first section of our walk took us from the Captain's Tower, past the Keep to the southwest corner of the wall. Approaching the corner, Fred got a nice picture of Prudence and Nancy and Carlisle Cathedral, and from the corner he could also look back past the Keep into the inner ward of the castle.
For my park, also at the corner I got a good view looking back along the front wall and the Outer Gatehouse. You can look at some of the other pictures I took along this section of the wall walk by clicking on the thumbnails below:
The next section of our walk took us along the top of the Curtain Wall, where we had excellent views of Carlisle; we passed the museum and ended up at the most eastern point on the castle walls. Near that corner, we passed some firing slits, presumably used for arrows or, later, for guns.
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Next, we walked along the northeast wall that curves around to the west. The first part of this section is a narrow, stone‑supported walkway. This part of the walk goes by a set of old cannon, and also overlooks what appears to be a park to the north. Take a look at some of the views along here by clicking on the thumbnails below:
At this northernmost point on the walls, I made a panorama taking in the entire castle complex from the eastern wall we've just come along all the way around to the western section- including the military buildings and parade ground. This view is in the scrollable window below:
We turned the corner to walk back towards the Keep, and this time we could look southeast across the inner ward; you can see that view here. When we got back to the Captain's Tower, I took one more picture looking towards the north wall corner. The walk along the walls was really interesting, and we four went back down the stairs to see the courtyard, museum and Keep.
The Military Buildings (4)
The Inner Ward Yard (6)
Looking Around the Inner Ward Courtyard |
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The Keep (7)
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In the thickness of the west wall, there was a small kitchen- still recognizable by its fireplace- and a small chapel or orotory. In 1153, King David I of Scotland died here.
When we got to the top floor of the Keep, we found a series of small rooms that were used for various purposes.
The Top Floor of the Keep |
We took some pictures in some of the other rooms on the second and third levels; you can see one of Fred's pictures here, and you can use the clickable thumbnails below to see a couple of mine:
On one floor, the stairway ended in one large room and then continued, through a separate shaft, to the floor above. I thought that this room was particularly interesting, and took a number of pictures in it. Then it occurred to me to merge those pictures together, and you can see the result below:
An Interesting Room in the Castle Keep |
The last thing of note here in the Keep that I'd like to include pictures of was the graffiti that we found carved into the soft sandstone of the walls. Bored prison guards, as they sat on duty here, might have made these remarkable 15th-century carvings. Covering the lobby and the door to this space, they are a unique survival; similar carvings in other castles, like the Tower of London and Dover, were all made much later and by prisoners.
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The man who carved these obviously had a strong artistic sense and an urge to create, but he probably could neither read nor write. The carvings here are a remarkable piece of folk art, and show the importance of signs and symbols in an age when most ordinary people were illiterate.
The four of us left the castle Keep and met up with Guy, Ron and Karl down in the courtyard and, our visit to the castle complete, headed back out of the complex and through the tunnel under the street to the museum.
The Tullie House Museum
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The museum houses the Human History Collection, most notable for antiquities associated with Hadrian's Wall and the two Roman forts established in Carlisle. It also has large and eclectic collections of zoological, botanical and geological material, as well as fine and decorative arts collections.
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When we finished at the museum, it was time to head back to the guest house, collect the van, and drive on down to Liverpool.
Walking Back to the Langleigh Guest House
Walking Through the Central Plaza in Carlisle |
When we got back around to the street that headed southeast towards Langleigh Guest House, I peeled off from the group to continue down to the two circular buildings that I had seen on our way up. As I learned, the place where the two old buildings stand was the site of Botchergate, the original southern entrance to the city. In the 16th century a fortress designed to house artillery was built here. The present two towers date from the 19th century and were designed by Thomas Telford and completed by Sir Robert Smirke as assize courts and a prison. The statue in front of them is of the Earl of Lonsdale, the man who promoted their construction. The west tower is occasionally open to the public.
I took some pictures of the towers and of the Earl of Lonsdale's statue, and you can click on the thumbnails below to have a look at them:
The city gate no longer exists, as a goodly portion of Carlisle's old city walls were torn down years ago to make room for the expansion of the city; but these two buildings flank the position where the gate used to be. To emphasize this, I stepped to the far side of the intersection in front of them and took a series of three pictures, stitching them together into this panoramic view:
The Telford Towers in Carlisle, England |
The Drive to Liverpool and Dinner
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This slowed us down considerably, but the upside was that we got to see rather more nice scenery than we would have on the motorway. I took a couple of good pictures that you can see here and here, and Fred got a number of nice shots that you can use the clickable thumbnails below to have a look at:
Once we got back on the expressway, the rest of the trip was pretty easy, although the turns once you got near Liverpool were a little tricky- what with all the roundabouts after we turned off the M9 onto the M58.
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Actually, we were fortunate in that the time for the loading zone ended just when we pulled in to park, and didn't pick up again until after Ron and I took the van to return it the next morning. So we just left the van there all night- saving what I am sure would have been expensive hotel or garage parking.
The hotel was quite nice (albeit expensive, but that was to be expected). I'll save our hotel pictures for tomorrow's album page.
Church Bells as We Walk to Dinner in Liverpool |
The meal was quite good (thank you, Ron and Prudence), and we returned to the Indigo Hotel about ten, as Ron and I had to be up early to take the van to the local office of the rental agency to return it.
You can use the links below to continue to another photo album page.
September 21, 2013: Liverpool, England to Dublin, Ireland | |
September 19, 2013: Aberdeen to Carlisle, Scotland | |
Return to the Index for Our British Isles Trip |