January 21, 2013: Brookgreen Gardens (Day Two) | |
Return to the Index for 2013 |
Well, a new year has begun, and we'd planned last December that we would make a trip to Fort Lauderdale in January. In mid-January, we heard from Guy Blair that he father had fallen and was in the hospital, and he was planning to go down and help him. Since our plans were flexible, we made plans to leave Dallas on January 18th, the tail end of the first week Guy would be in Myrtle Beach, and stop there on our way to Florida. We timed the trip so that Guy would have the week to try to get his father situated without worrying about us underfoot, and we would arrive on Saturday morning the 19th. We'd stay with Guy until Tuesday, helping him where we could, and then continue on down on the second part of our trip to Fort Lauderdale. We'd stay longer if there were anything we could do to help Guy.
We'd been planning to bring the new cat, Zack, with us to Florida (since he is such a great traveler), and we thought we'd just leave him in the carrier whenever necessary, although Guy told us that since his father would not be at home, we could bring Zack inside. So that was the plan, and we headed east about ten on Friday morning.
Driving to Myrtle Beach
|
We stopped for supper just east of Birmingham, and by midnight we were taking Zack into the motel room.
The next morning we called Jeffie and arranged to meet for breakfast at an IHOP on the east side of Atlanta. She had riding lessons that morning, and the restaurant was convenient for her. We had a really nice visit before we headed out.
I had never actually driven from Atlanta over to the coast before, so this stretch of I-20 was new to me. But it was an easy drive (and I was able to add a new Baskin-Robbins to my list when we went through Augusta). I-20 ends when it intersects I-95, so from there we got out the GPS, entered the address of Guy's father's house, and headed off southeast through Conway. The weather was nice and it was a pleasant drive.
|
The neighborhood Guy's Dad lives in is quite nice for what was originally a mobile home park. Most of the houses were two homes put together, so the appearance now is of tree-shaded streets and small bungalows.
|
We had a chance to do some "catching-up" that Saturday afternoon with Guy, learning about all the difficulties his dad was having in the hospital. Guy was beginning to think that his dad wouldn't be coming back to the house, but would have to move to some sort of assisted-living facility (and, as it turned out, he was right). But at this point, things were still in flux.
We spent the afternoon with Guy, took him to a seafood restaurant down the coast for supper, and then returned to the house to talk more. We made some plans for Sunday. Guy wanted to see his dad in the morning at the hospital, but wanted to go with us to Brookgreen Gardens- located about six miles south of where his dad lives and only a mile or so south of the hospital.
Sunday at Brookgreen Gardens
|
The entrance to Brookgreen Gardens is about a mile south of where the "civilization" of Murrell's Inlet ends. When we got to the entrance, we were treated to the first of many sculptures that we would see today; this one was entitled "Fighting Stallions", by Anna Hyatt Huntington.
The sculpture, done in 1950, shows two horses rearing on their hind legs to strike each other with their front hooves and bite. One has sunk his teeth into the neck of the other, and that horse has thrown back its head in pain. The sculpture is very vibrant and realistic; muscles are taut in the struggle and the horse's manes and tails are disorderd in the combat. Each horse has a nude rider; one clings desperately to his stallion's back, while the other, thrown to the ground, tries to protect himself with his upthrown arm.
The entire sculpture is atop a round pedestal in the midst of the entry fountain. This sculpture was quite an introduction to the Gardens!
We drove in, and found that Guy had already purchased multi-day tickets for the three of us. We planned to all three return on Monday as well- pending Guy's need to be at the hospital to help coordinate his father's care.
At the Visitor Pavilion
|
No sooner had we parked the car, that we began to learn of the history of Brookgreen plantation. It actually began with the history of The Oaks plantation which was adjacent to it. That plantation was the property of William Alston (more in a minute), and was inherited by Joseph Alston. As that sign indicated, in 1801 he married Theodosia Burr, daughter of Aaron Burr (arguably one of history's two most famous duellists). We also learned that Joseph Alston's sister was the wife of the owner of Brookgreen plantation- this from a sign about the 1791 visit here by President George Washington.
We walked over to the Welcome Center and museum and went in to watch the interesting video about the history of Brookgreen Plantation. This area was originally four rice plantations. The plantations from south to north were The Oaks, Brookgreen, Springfield, and Laurel Hill. The earliest known date on which the area was settled was the mid-1700s, when William Allston developed a rice plantation along the banks of the Waccamaw River. Shortly after the plantation was established, he built the first house on the property and in the area. Through family ties, the Alstons also owned The Oaks. In 1825, a landowner named Joshua John Ward acquired Brookgreen and parts of two other plantations. He was America's largest slaveowner, and ran the rice plantation up until the Civil War. After the conflict, the plantation was sold to Dr. Louis C. Hassell; eventually, Dr. Hassell's brother-in-law and wife become the owners.
Archer and Anna Hyatt Huntington of Connecticut first visited the property in 1929. Because they were captivated by the beauty of it, they purchased nearly 9,100 acres of forest, swamp, rice fields and beachfront- all of the original four plantations. They intended to establish a winter home on the Atlantic, but Anna saw the potential of the property and they quickly began to develop her vision of making it the showcase for her sculptures. Archer was the stepson of philanthropist Collis Huntington, and he and Anna continued that philanthropy by eventually donating Brookgreen, now called Brookgreen Gardens, to the State of South Carolina to become the country's first public sculpture garden. It currently has the largest collection of figurative sculpture by American artists in an outdoor setting in the world.
Brookgreen is also a nature and historical preserve with a small zoo and a nature exhibition center.
Only a handful of relics survive of the former plantations. The Alston (or Allston) cemetery survives on the grounds of The Oaks plantation- about a mile from the Visitor Center. Gov. James Alston and his child are buried there. In the same graveyard is a memorial to the governor's wife Theodosia Burr Alston, daughter of Vice President Aaron Burr, who was lost at sea. Her ghost reportedly haunts the Grand Strand, looking for her father. The rice mill at Laurel Hill is one other remnant of the original plantations.
After we'd obtained our garden maps, we headed down through the beautiful brick arbor towards the Gift Shop and the beginning of the maze of walkways through the various areas of the garden.
An Orientation to Brookgreen Gardens
To facilitate this I've borrowed one diagram from our brochure and created another from a 45° aerial view of the gardens. For the diagram, I am just going to put it in a scrollable window for you to look at as you wish. That scrollable window is below:
This diagram is informative, and it is what we used to find our way around the gardens.
And one other thing. We saw a great many sculptures not visible on the aerial view or shown specifically on the diagram above. We photographed many of them. If there was a descriptive sign near the sculpture, we usually photographed that, too. Instead of transcribing the information from the signs into this narrative, where there is a descriptive sign that you can read you will see the word "SIGN"; this will appear either under a thumbnail or adjacent to a link. The link or thumbnail will show you a large view of the sculpture and if you click on the word "SIGN", you'll be able to read the sign adjacent to it. And also to make things easier, I will put the names of sculpture pieces or artwork in bold italics when I used them in the narrative.
The Circle of Life
|
Nearby, as we turned the corner to walk along the northwest side of the Gift Shop was a two-piece installation by Dan Ostermiller called Peacocks. (SIGN) Continuing towards the Rainey Sculpture Pavilion, we passed by a small garden called "Anne's Garden." It was a small, square area in a thicket of bushes that had a bench and a single sculpture called Young America. (SIGN) We continued to follow the brick pathway around and as we headed towards the Sculpture Pavilion, passed another installation.
This sculpture reminded me of some of those we saw in Santa Fe- lifesize bronze human forms. This one, of a seated man reading a newspaper, was entitled Len Ganeway. (SIGN)
The Rainey Sculpture Pavilion was built in 1968 as the Visitors Pavilion, but today showcases up to seven temporary indoor exhibits in two galleries each year. It was not open, so we continued through its open breezeway to a small square garden where we found an installation called The Circle of Life. The sculptor was Tuck Langland, and the four dancing figures- two male and two female- each represent a different ethnicity and point in the circle of life. The first, an African woman, symbolizes the beginning of life. The second dancer takes the form of a European man and represents maturity. Third is the Indian sculpture of transformation, representing death. Finally, the Native American figure represents dormancy before the cycle begins again. Use the clickable thumbnails below to have a look at the four sculptures that form The Circle of Life:
"Beginning" "Maturity" "Transformation" "Dormancy" |
Through the Live Oak Alleé
|
The pool itself was shaded on two side by huge live oaks- part of the stand of trees that form the Live Oak Alleé. The entrance to the Alleé was on the far side of the pool, and atop both ends of the brick wall through which we walked was a Griffin by Paul Howard Manship. (SIGN)
|
The live oak trees' graceful branches (Fred took two really nice pictures of them that you can see here and here) host two local epiphyte plants- Spanish moss and resurrection fern. (SIGN) You can see both clearly in the first of Fred's pictures.
Just inside the wall of the Alleé, there was a rectangular pool off to our right, and there we found a sculpture entitled Narcissus by Adolph Alexander Weinman. (SIGN) Near that sculpture but off to the side along the outer wall of the Alleé there was a stone tablet with a rather odd poem called "The Birds Sing." You should read it here.
The Alleé actually ran through the center of a rectangular walled garden, and there were a number of sculptures located around the walkway that ran alongside those walls. I made a complete circuit of the walkway so I could see all the sculptures. You can use the clickable thumbnails below to see pictures of the individual sculptures, and you can use the "SIGN" link below a picture to read the descriptive sign for it:
Gretchen's Garden and Dionysus
|
"Gretchen's Garden" is also right next to a small area called "the Children's Peace Garden." It looked as if the walkway through it would take us around some things we wanted to see, so we didn't follow it. There was a sculpture quite close to the pathway that we were on, though. That sculpture was entitled Sunflowers and the artist was Charles Cropper Parks. It depicts a long-haired girl in a short dress playing a flute; she is seated on a gigantic sunflower flanked by two smaller flowers with foliage.
The centerpiece of this part of the garden was the major sculpture entitled Dionysus by Edward McCartan. (SIGN) This sculpture was placed in what was the center of the sculpture gardens in 1938; the glittering focal point is of cast bronze covered with hand-applied gold leaf. You can see a large picture of this sculpture at left.
Dionysus, crowned with ivy, stands nonchalantly, one knee sharply bent, hand on hips. He hold a thrysus over the head of a panther which curls behind his legs. A piece of fabric is draped over his left wrist and thigh. This group, originally designed in 1923, was enlarged and remodeled for Brookgreen in 1936. The classic harmony of this figure is enlivened by the rhythmic curves of composition with its finely curved balance of line.
The Brown Sculpture Court
|
The sculpture court was a long, narrow building, open in the center with open-air aisles on both sides. Underneath the overhangs covering these aisles a number of small sculptures were on display- too many to try to catalog. One of the best was a bronze pair called Rearing Horses by MacMonnies. (SIGN) You can see a close-up of one of the pair here. Below are clickable thumbnails for some view of the other small sculptures on display:
|
In the center was a long, thin pool, and the pool contained several sculpture works. The first we encountered was Wings of the Morning by Marshall Maynard Fredericks. The sculpture, which sits on a triangular marble pedestal in the middle of the south pool, shows a group of swans taking flight over an outstretched palm. Inscribed on the pedestal is a quotation from the Book of Psalms: "If I take the wings of th emorning and dwell in the uttermost parts of the sea; even there shall thy hand lead me, and thy right hand shall hold me."
Another sculpture in the pool was that of a young archer who has apparently just let fly an arrow; you can see that sculpture here. The third sculpture that was placed in the pool was at the north end of the Court; it was entitled Reaching and was created by William EvAngelos Frudakis. It is a bronze sculpture on a stone base (the stone having come from Socastee, South Carolina) that shows the figure of a nude woman leaning out to touch the water. It was a handsome piece, and you can see another view of it here.
Three more interesting pieces were The End of the Trail (James Earl Fraser), The Torchbearer (Anna Hyatt Huntington) and Nebula (Avard Tennyson Fairbanks).
The Poetry Garden and the Garden Wall
|
The other pools had smaller sculptures in them. One of them was entitled Pomona, done by Joseph Emile Renier in 1929.
At the northwest corner of the Dogwood garden, we found the the path leading to the Labyrinth- which is outside the Garden itself to the northwest. We knew the Labyrinth was not large, nor really a maze at all, so we skipped it to walk through the Poetry Garden to the back Garden Wall.
One side of the Dogwood/Poetry Garden backs up to the side of the Brown Sculpture Court, and along that wall we found a pair of related sculptures. One, entitled The Centaur Cheiron, was sculpted in 1936 by Anna Hyatt Huntington. The brass sculpture was reminiscent of those by Remington. (SIGN) Huntington's companion piece, A Female Centaur, was also sculpted in brass that same year. (SIGN)
As we walked southwest along the back wall, we saw there was an area of the garden we missed, so we went to wander through it. If you take a look at the Gardens diagram above, you'll see that the walkways in this area of the garden form the shape of a butterfly, with the sculpture of Dionysus where the body of the insect would be. The area we were going to walk through would be the upper right wing. (The Children's Garden was in the lower right wing, and so on.)
This section of the garden also backs up to the Brown Sculpture Court, and adjacent to the steps up to an administrative building we found a sculpture entitled Avocet by Elliott Melville Offner (1931-2010). After studying painting at Yale University with Josef Albers and becoming enamored with sculpture during a trip to europe in the 1960s, Elliott Offner initially focused on the human figure in his art. Eventually, an interest in natural history, fossils, and other scientific subjects led him to portray wildlife, especially the fragile beauty of birds. Offner was known for th emeticulous surface treatments of his sculpture. His compositions often emphasized points of tension and balance or launched his subjects into flight.
|
Fauns at Play by Charles Keck (SIGN)
Actaeon by Paul Howard Manship (SIGN)
Primitive Man and Serpent by Roland Hinton Perry (SIGN)
We also saw the Mares of Diomedes by John Gutzon de la Mothe Borglum, sculpted in 1904 (SIGN). If that name is familiar, it should be. He is more famous for another sculpture that the created. That sculpture, which you have undoubtedly seen either in person or in pictures, is somewhat larger than this one. If you need another hint, that larger sculpture (actually a mock-up of it) was used in Alfred Hitchcock's "North by Northwest." That's right; the sculptor of the Mares of Diomedes was also the sculptor of Mt. Rushmore.
Towards the end of the walk along the Garden Wall where the trees were in bloom, we came to the pool and fountain near Dionysus- the Rosen Carolina Terrace. Here there was a large oval pool, and against one side of it was the sculpture called Alligator Bender by Nathaniel Choate, sculpted our of Italian marble in 1937 (SIGN). The fountain where this sculpture is located occupies the site of the original plantation house which burned in 1901. A subsequent modern structure replaced it, but that structure has been removed, and this large pool now serves as the reservoir for water that is distributed to all points within the garden.
On either short side of the oval fountain there are matching sculptures- Boy with Dolphin and Girl with Dolphin, both by Milton Horn and sculpted in limestone in 1929 (SIGN).
Rosen Carolina Terrace |
Near where I was making my movie there were two other sculptures of note. One was called Diana by Gleb W. Derujunsky, sculpted around 1925 (SIGN). The other was named Joy, and is a work by Karl Heinrich Gruppe. He did the sculpture in 1925.
Caroline's Garden
|
I also made a movie of the fountain and the statue and Fred and Guy and while it is not all that great a movie, you can watch it with the player below:
"Diana" and Fountain |
Just east of Diana was another rectangular pool, this one called the Fountain of the Muses.
|
Looking at the sculpture from the back we can see more of the sculptural elements; the Muses are dancing on the heads of leaping dolphins, and ahead of them are a group of fish. At the end of the fountain are three pedestals, each with a different sculpture atop it. The central one has a female figure, and the pedestals on either side have a centaur and faun. Each pedestal has a fountain nozzle coming out, and each nozzle has a different sculpted figure on top of it. On the nozzle below the female figure there is a sculpted horse, and the other two have a boar and a wolf.
The Palmetto Garden
|
The Palmetto Garden and its pool are surrounded by a low brick wall, and along this wall on both sides, and scattered on the open lawn around the pool, were a number of interesting sculptures. Below is a list of the ones we photographed; click on a name in the list to see our picture of the sculpture. (And if you want to read its informational sign, click the "SIGN" link beside its name.)
Loie Fuller: Vortex by Barbara Lekberg (SIGN)
Kaethe, Age Nine by Sigmund Abeles (SIGN)
Ecstasy by Gleb Derujinsky (SIGN)
Can-Can by Jane DeDecker (SIGN)
Orpheus and Eurydice by Nathaniel Choate (SIGN)
Girl with Fish by Harriet Hyatt Mayor (SIGN)
The Old Kitchen and Garden
"Peace Fountain" |
The garden adjacent to the Old Kitchen had a number of interesting sculptures, and we had a chance to wander around and look at some of them while we were waiting for our lunch. Below is a list of the ones we photographed; click on a name in the list to see our picture of the sculpture. (And if you want to read its informational sign, click the "SIGN" link beside its name.)
The Afternoon of the Faun by Percy Bryant Baker (SIGN)
Nymph and Fawn by Carl Paul Jennewein (SIGN)
Pastoral by Edmond Romulus Amateis (SIGN)
Sea Scape by Herbert Adams (SIGN)
The Children's Garden
|
Returning Through the Magnolia Garden
The Pond in the Magnolia Garden |
Walking along beside the pond, there were a number of sculptures on our right, underneath the overhanging trees. If you would like to see some of them, click on the sculpture's name in the list below, and if you want to read its informational sign, you can click on that link, too:
Joy of Motherhood by Willard Newman Hirsch (SIGN)
The Guardian by Sahl Swarz (SIGN)
American St. Francis by Charles Cropper Parks
Nature's Dance by Alexander Stirling Calder (SIGN)
Torse de Femme by David Class (SIGN)
Flying Wild Geese by Marshall M. Fredericks (SIGN)
Phryne Before the Judges by Albert Walter Wein (SIGN)
Before we headed back to the car and home, I paused at the east end of the pond to try my own panorama. It is below:
The Magnolia Garden Pond |
We left the Gardens and returned home via the Waccamaw Medical Center so Guy could check on his father. Then, after a bit of shopping, we had a pleasant dinner at a local restaurant, and then watched some videos at home with Guy.
You can use the links below to continue to another photo album page.
January 21, 2013: Brookgreen Gardens (Day Two) | |
Return to the Index for 2013 |