September 30, 2011: Boston State House and Freedom Trail
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October 1, 2011
New England Trip Day 8
Walking Around North Boston

 

It's Saturday morning, the last day of our week-long trip to New England. We've seen six state capitols and done a heck of a lot of other stuff, too. Today, we are going to visit the last two stops on Boston's Freedom Trail, and then Steve has suggested that we go to the Peabody Museum which is near Harvard University. (I think I am going to pass on the museum, though, and take a walk around "Harvard Yard" by myself.)

 

The USS Constitution (Freedom Trail Stop #15)

This morning we are going to drive from the hotel directly to the Boston National Historical Park and the berth of the USS Constitution- the 15th stop on the Freedom Trail. I am glad that we did the first 14 stops yesterday, when we had a beautiful day for it. Today, it is overcast and chilly, and there has been a light rain off and on. It had stopped shortly before we left the hotel, and we hope it will hold off the rest of the day.


As we had yesterday, we got on I-93 and headed south to Boston. But before we crossed the Charles River, we followed our GPS and took an exit that dumped us out fairly close to the Historical Park.

As you can see in the aerial view below, we found a parking lot quite close to the USS Constitution. When we walked out of the parking lot and headed towards the ship, we found that we were again walking along the trail of red bricks that we had been following all day yesterday. I did a little research after we got back, and discovered that the trail, after crossing the bridge that you saw at the tail end of yesterday, followed the route we drove to get to the parking area.

When it got into the Historical Park, it actually split for a time, with one branch leading to the Naval Museum and the other leading to the USS Constitution Visitor Center.

Before we walked over to the Naval Yard, we stopped to take a couple of pictures of the marina that was right next to the parking area. I also got a picture of Fred at the marina.



As we were walking down the sidewalk towards the Navy Yard, we got our first look at the USS Constitution, and soon the red brick trail led us in to the Charlestown Navy Yard.

Right at the entrance to the Navy Yard there was an informative sign that I thought you might want to read. If you looked at the picture, you can see just below the sign a portion of the red brick trail that we followed all day yesterday. That's the trail that came across one of the Charles River bridges from Copp's Burying Ground to here. It will take us into the Navy Yard and then to our last stop- the Bunker Hill Monument.

I have reproduced portions of the sign at left, so it is easier for you to read. In the diagram at the bottom, you can see the Freedom Trail, and you can also see the portion going off to the left that will take us to Bunker Hill.

The Charlestown Navy Yard is a unique partnership of the National Park Service, the United States Navy and th enon-profit USS Constitution Museum. While the National Park Service preserves and interprets the navy yard, its naval traditions continue today. Active-duty Navy sailors serve aboard USS Constitution and she is maintained and repaired by skilled craftspeople from the Naval History and Heritage Command Detachment, Boston.

When we got to the Visitor Center, we had to go through the obligatory metal detectors to get inside the Center. There, we found that we could tour the ship two ways. First, we could pay a fee and wait for the next available guided tour group to leave. The cost wasn't a problem, but waiting the better part of an hour for the next tour was. The second thing we could do was to tour the ship ourselves, and we could do that almost immediately. The only problem was that to go below decks, one needs to be on the guided tour. We decided that going on deck would be enough, so we joined the group in the self-guided waiting area and in a few minutes were allowed to go on board.


I should point out that in this aerial view of the ship, there seems to be some sort of awning over the deck. I do not know if this is a summer thing or something, but today the deck was open, and we could walk around with unobstructed views.

The USS Constitution is the oldest commissioned warship afloat in the world. It was first launched in 1797. The Constitution is one of six ships ordered for construction by George Washington to protect America's growing maritime interests. The ship's greatest glory came during the war of 1812 when she defeated four British frigates- earning her the nickname "Old Ironsides," because cannon balls glanced off her thick hull. The ship was restored in 1927 with contributions from the nation's school children.

The Charlestown Navy Yard, where we are at the moment, was built on what was once Mouton's or Morton's Point, the landing place of the British army prior to the Battle of Bunker Hill. It was one of the first shipyards built in the United States. During its 174-year history, hundreds of ships were built, repaired and modernized, including the World War II destroyer USS Cassin Young. Today, thirty acres of the Navy Yard are preserved by the National Park Service as part of Boston National Historical Park.

We are going to go aboard shortly, but before we do, you might want to become more familiar with the history of this legendary frigate. While it is true that "Old Ironsides" defeated four British frigates simultaneously in her most famous battle, she had already had a stellar history during the War of 1812. I wanted to learn more about her myself, and I found an excellent site for the purpose. Rather than send you to that site (knowing that links come and go on the Internet), I decided to make a copy of the relevant historical information and put it here, in my photo album. If you would like to take a few minutes and read about the history and accomplishments of the USS Constitution, just click on the logo below:

Also, before we went into the Visitor Center, I stopped to make a movie of the Charlestown Navy Yard, and you can watch that movie with the player below:


Inside the Visitor Center there were some interesting exhibits and one particularly nice aerial view of the Navy Yard. Just for grins, I made one movie here in the Visitor Center, and you can watch it with the player below:

As I said earlier, we had to wait for just a short while before we could go ahead and board the ship for our self-guided tour (this was because they wanted to give one of the guided tour groups time to board the ship and get below decks.


Although our waiting area was a good hundred feet or so from the USS Constitution, when I tried to make a movie of it I found I was still a bit close, so there is some panning up and down in the movie you can watch with the player at left.

There were some interesting signs around the waiting area, and we spent some time looking at them before heading off to board the USS Constitution. Here is my picture of Fred on the gangway.

In our self-guided tour, what we did was to walk around the upper deck of the USS Constitution, and, as we did, the three of us took quite a few pictures. As you can imagine, the pictures were either of the lines and rigging towering above us, the lines and rigging stowed on deck, the deck itself, or the armaments (cannon) that are still on deck. With these four subjects, and all three of us snapping away, there were a lot of duplicate pictures. So let's just organize them by subject, and have a look around the USS Constitution.

It's too bad that the sails were not raised, but they would only be raised if the ship were underway (as it is fairly often for special occasions in and around Boston.) The USS Constititution's sails, of course, are what harness the power of the wind to drive the ship forward. The USS Constitution originally carried 36 individual sails with a total square footage of 42,710 or almost one acre. Originally made of linen fiber called flax, today the USS Constitution's sails are made of Oceanus sailcloth. Oceanus is a superior fiber to flax because it is weather resistant and will not retain water.


As far as the lines go, though, they were much in evidence. The USS Constitution needs over 14 miles of line (rope) to be properly rigged. 6 miles of line are used as "stays" or supports and 8.6 miles of line are used to "run" the sails or properly control them while under way. Tarred hemp and unprotected hemp were used originally to rig the USS Constitution, but she is currently rigged with synthetic nylon fiber.

You can click on the thumbnails above, left, to see some of the best pictures we took of the rigging above us here on the USS Constitution. When the lines come down to the deck, the rigging gets even more complicated, with various pulleys and winches to wind the line up or let it out. Excess and spare line is stored in Bristol fashion all around the deck. Take a look at some of the intricacies of the deck rigging by clicking on the thumbnails below:

I made two good movies here on deck, one from the bow and other from the stern. You can have a look at them using the two movie players below:

On deck at the bow of the USS Constitution
On deck at the stern of the USS Constitution

Now for some of the other things we saw here on the decks of the USS Constitution.


The USS Constitution was armed with cannon, of course, and if you looked at the history of the ship earlier, you've seen the cannon in action. (Or if you've watched any of the "Pirates of the Caribbean" movies, you've seen pretty good simulations.) In any event, we took some good pictures of the armament here on the USS Constitution, and you can look at these pictures by clicking on the thumbnails below:

The USS Constitution is copper plated from just below the waterline down to the keel. This copper sheathing provides protection against excessive sea growth and shipworms. Originally, the ship's copper was imported from England and forged by coppersmith Paul Revere's foundry. The USS Constitution has 11 tons of copper including 3200 sheets and over 400,000 copper nails.

We'll wrap up our visit to the USS Constitution with some additional pictures that we took while walking around on deck and after we disembarked. Click on the thumbnails below for some of the pictures Fred took:

And click on the thumbnails below for the last of the pictures that the three of us took here at the USS Constitution:

Now it is off to the last stop on the Freedom Trail- the Monument at Bunker Hill.

 

The Bunker Hill Monument (Freedom Trail Stop #16)

Leaving the USS Constitution, the 15th stop on the Freedom Trail, we picked up the red brick trail outside the Visitor Center and headed off for our last stop on the Freedom Trail- the Bunker Hill Monument.


Following this last part of the Freedom Trail was even more interesting than the part in downtown Boston. I thought it was pretty interesting how the red brick inset trail continued from the Navy Yard, north and underneath a highway, and then twisting and turning through a residential neighborhood to get to the monument. It was overcast and foggy, and so we couldn't see the monument until we were almost upon it.


About halfway between the Navy Yard and the monument, we passed Winthrop Square. This small urban park was a nice little oasis in the Bunker Hill neighborhood. The main feature is the Soldiers' Memorial, which was erected in 1872 to commemorate the service of "the Men of Charlestown" in their efforts in "the Preservation of the Union" in the Civil War.

I thought the park interesting enough to let the guys get a bit ahead of me while I stopped to make a movie panning 360-degrees around the park. You can watch that movie with the player at right.

I rejoined the other guys and we continued up the hill following our trail. We walked up some pretty narrow streets and passed quite a few very handsome houses. There were also quite a few little shops sprinkled through the neighborhood. Fairly soon, though, we could see the Bunker Hill Monument in the distance.

When we came around the final corner on our trek up the hill, the Bunker Hill Monument was right in front of us.

We came onto the Monument grounds through the Massachusetts Gate, which in the aerial view above is on the south side of the square.


"Don't fire until you see the whites of their eyes!" This legendary order has come to symbolize the conviction and determination of the ill-equipped American colonists facing powerful British forces during the famous battle fought on this site on June 17, 1775. The battle is popularly known as "The Battle of Bunker Hill," although most of the fighting actually took place on Breed's Hill, the site of the existing monument and exhibit lodge. Today, a 221‑foot granite obelisk marks the site of the first major battle of the American Revolution.

Control of this high ground near the harbor was important to the British occupation of Boston. When colonial forces chose to fortify Charlestown, they bypassed the more dominant Bunker Hill and dug in on Breed's Hill which was lower and closer to the water.

The Battle of Bunker Hill pitted a newly-formed and inexperienced colonial army against the more highly trained and better-equipped British. Despite the colonial army's shortcomings, it was led by such capable men as Colonel William Prescott, Colonel John Stark and General Israel Putnam, who had experience fighting alongside the British in the French and Indian War.

Although the British Army ultimately prevailed in the battle, the colonists greatly surprised the British by repelling two major assaults and inflicting great casualties. Out of the 2,200 British ground forces and artillery engaged at the battle, almost half (1,034) were counted afterwards as casualties (both killed and wounded).

The colonists lost between 400 and 600 combined casualties, including popular patriot leader and newly-elected Major General Dr. Joseph Warren, who was killed during the third and final assault.


The first monument on the site was an 18-foot wooden pillar with a gilt urn erected in 1794 by King Solomon's Lodge of Masons to honor fallen patriot and mason, Dr. Joseph Warren. In 1823, a group of prominent citizens formed the Bunker Hill Monument Association to construct a more permanent and significant monument to commemorate the famous battle. The existing monument was finally completed in 1842 and dedicated on June 17, 1843, in a major national ceremony. The exhibit lodge was built in the late nineteenth century to house a statue of Dr. Warren.

One of the statues here on the Monument grounds is that of Colonel Prescott. Near the Massachusetts Gate there is a bronze plaque dedicated to the American soldiers who were killed during the battle on June 17, 1775, and you can look at that plaque here. Before we went into the exhibit lodge (visitor center), I walked down the hill and outside the eastern side of the Monument Grounds until I could get the entire Monument in a picture, and you can see that picture here.

The four of us went inside the exhibit lodge, which was also the entry to the Monument itself. In the center, we were able to take a look at the statue of Dr. Joseph Warren, the fallen patriot and Mason.

Then we went through the door leading over to the Monument. Just outside the door to the Monument itself, we found the warning sign that you can see here. As we could see, persons with heart or respiratory conditions were advised not to climb. Well, it had been just eight weeks since Fred's triple-bypass surgery, and his doctors had indicated that two full months would be the minimum time that a patient like Fred should refrain from strenuous lifting or climbing. I know he wanted to climb the tower, but I congratulate him on making the prudent decision to remain on the ground. Mario and I went ahead into the Monument and started up. We did not know it until we got to the top, but Steve had also decided at the last minute to climb up also, so he was a little behind us all the way up.

As we were climbing, I made a movie of the narrow, spiral stone steps I was ascending. I had to be careful not to run into anyone coming down. I hoped that the movie would turn out well, but it was way too dark, and so I have no movie to include here. 294 steps later, Mario and I came out into the very small (15-foot diameter) viewing room.


One of the first things I did once all three of us had arrived at the top, was to make a movie looking around the crowded viewing room. Ignore the little kid yelling down the stairs and have a look at the viewing room with the movie player at left. I also prevailed on Steve to take a picture of me here at the top of the Bunker Hill Monument, and you can have a look at it here. I took a number of pictures out the windows, hoping to stitch them together, but I could not get complete coverage. In any case, it was dark and foggy, so it is probably just as well. To see some of the pictures I took, just click on the thumbnails below:

Well, we spent enough time at the top of the Monument to see all there was to see, and then headed down. We hooked up with Fred at the bottom, and hung around the Monument a while, savoring our final stop on the Freedom Trail. We took a few more pictures around the site, three of which I'd like to include here:

That completed our walk along Boston's Freedom Trail, accomplished over two days. We followed the red brick trail back to the car, and set off for our next stop- the Peabody Museum just off the Harvard University campus in Cambridge.

 

A Walk Around Harvard University

Steve had expressed an interest in visiting the Peabody Museum of Archaeology and Ethnology at Harvard University. Founded in 1866, the Peabody Museum of Archaeology & Ethnology is one of the oldest museums in the world devoted to anthropology and houses one of the most comprehensive records of human cultural history in the Western Hemisphere. Reason enough to want to visit.

 

Arrival at Harvard

We left the parking lot near the USS Constitution, set the GPS, and followed its directions as it led us west across Cambridge to Harvard University.

We parked on Kirkland Street, right across from a Harvard building called Memorial Hall. (More about Memorial Hall in a moment.)


We then walked down to the corner ahead of us, and turned right to go to the museum. When we got to the Peabody, the guys wanted to get some lunch, preferably inside the museum. But there was no restaurant or cafe there, so they decided instead to go ahead a buy tickets, walk outside somewhere to get lunch, and then return to the museum.

Now, museums are not particularly my "thing." It's not that they're not interesting- far from it. But if I am going to walk through a museum, I want to do two things. First, I want to have enough time to really get "into" the exhibits, and that means reading a lot of the descriptive material and spending a fair amount of time. That we did not have; we had only a couple of hours to devote to the museum, counting the time it would take for lunch. Secondly, I want to be able to sit and relax every so often; while I can hike up and down mountains all day, or walk rapidly for hours at a stretch with no problem, for some reason walking slowly, as one does in a museum, is very unpleasant for me. It tires me out easily. (One of these days, I should get one of those little folding stools to take with me on museum outings. I guess I am just getting old.)

In any event, I told the guys that I'd go with them to lunch and then while they were in the museum, I would walk around the Harvard campus- particularly Harvard Yard that I had always heard so much about. I thought that this way, everyone would get to do what he wanted on our last day here in New England.

That was, of course, fine with everyone, and so the guys got their tickets and we headed out to lunch. I had been to Harvard once before with Tony, but we didn't walk through the campus. We did visit Harvard Square, with is the shopping area right next to the campus, and I knew there were restaurants and such there. So as you can see in the aerial view, we headed off across the corner of Harvard Yard to find some lunch.

 

Memorial Hall


Although the guys did not walk through Harvard Yard with me, all of us did have a chance to look at and photograph Memorial Hall, since it was right next to where we parked. I came at it from both sides- first when we parked and were walking to the Peabody and then towards the end of my walk through Harvard when I returned to the car. So it makes sense to say a bit about this building now, and put everyone's pictures of it here.

Memorial Hall is an imposing brick building in High Victorian Gothic style; it is a National Historic Landmark which, in the architecture community is considered "a symbol of Boston's commitment to the Unionist cause and the abolitionist movement in America."(Harvard University: An Architectural Tour, Shand-Tucci & Cheek, 2001). It was erected in honor of Harvard graduates who fought for the Union in the American Civil War. From 1865 to 1868, a fund-raising committee gathered $370,000, then equal to one-twelfth of Harvard's total endowment, which was augmented by an additional $40,000 bequest from Charles Sanders, class of 1802, for "a hall or theatre to be used on Commencement days, Class days, Exhibition days, days of the meetings of the society of Alumni, or any other public occasion connected with the College, whether literary or festive."

An architectural competition began in December 1865, with the winning designs submitted by William Robert Ware, class of 1852, and Henry Van Brunt, class of 1854. (These initial designs were altered as plans proceeded.) In 1870 the building was named Memorial Hall and its cornerstone laid; Oliver Wendell Holmes, Sr., composed a hymn for the occasion. The hall was dedicated for use in 1874, with Sanders Theatre substantially complete in 1875, and the tower completed in 1877. The tower was subsequently destroyed in a 1956 fire but rebuilt in 1999.


In The Bostonians, Henry James described it thus: "The Memorial Hall of Harvard consists of three main divisions: one of them a theater, for academic ceremonies; another a vast refectory, covered with a timbered roof, hung about with portraits and lighted by stained windows, like the halls of the colleges of Oxford; and the third, the most interesting, a chamber high, dim and severe, consecrated to the sons of the university who fell in the long Civil War."

Sanders Theatre is a 1,100-seat lecture and concert hall inspired by Christopher Wren's Sheldonian Theatre at Oxford, England. The hall's great room (9,000 square feet), now known as Annenberg Hall, is shaped by massive wooden trusses, walnut paneling, and a blue, stenciled ceiling. It was converted to a student commons soon after construction, and served as the college's main dining hall until 1926. From 1926 until 1994, it was only lightly used but after extensive renovation reopened in 1996 as the dining hall for all freshmen.

The Memorial Transept consists of a 60-foot-high gothic vault above a marble floor, black walnut paneling and stenciled walls, two stained glass windows, and 28 white marble tablets commemorating 136 Civil War casualties. Twenty-two stained glass windows throughout the building, installed between 1879 and 1902, include works by John La Farge and Louis Comfort Tiffany. You can see some excellent examples of the stained glass windows found throughout the building in this picture of the hallway outside the Sanders Theatre.

In the first phase of restoration, Annenberg Hall's stained glass was restored. Cummings Studios, led by conservation consultant Julie L. Sloan [4] restored stained glass windows by Sarah Wyman Whitman, and several Tiffany glass windows, all portraying secular themes.[5] Until 1926, Annenberg Hall had been a central dining hall, but until 1994, the hall was cleared of its tables and served as a venue for dances, banquets, registrations, blood drives, exams and rehearsals. With funding from the Annenberg Foundation, the hall was restored to its original use as a dining facility; the multi-million dollar project featured new flooring, custom designed furniture and lighting fixtures inspired by the original designs, and restored art work- including a restoration of the stained-glass windows.

The general restoration of Memorial Hall was completed in 1996 and, finally, in 1999, the slate spire tower of Memorial Hall, truncated by fire on September 6, 1956, was restored and the building was complete.

It would have been interesting, in hindsight, to have gone inside the hall to see some of these architectural and artistic features, but that was not possible today, the building being closed to the public for a function that a sign outside said was under the auspices of the American Academy of Arts and Sciences. (Beginning about the time we crossed the campus for lunch, a long string of cars and shuttles seemed to be bringing businessmen and women to the function, and campus security was limiting entrance to the building. So we had to content ourselves with pictures of its exterior.

Below are thumbnails for some of the other pictures we took of Memorial Hall/Sanders Theatre. Just click on them to have a look at the pictures:

 

Lunch


So we left the Peabody and walked back down the street towards the campus. On the way, we passed some nice fountains in front of the Harvard Science Center. We cut across the northwest corner of Harvard Yard and then came out through the gate at Massachusetts Avenue. We crossed Mass Ave right by the First Unitarian Church. In the median between the church and Harvard sits the statue of Charles Sumner, sculpted by Anne Whitney in 1900. Sumner (1811-1874) was an American politician and senator from Massachusetts. An academic lawyer and a powerful orator, Sumner was the leader of the antislavery forces in Massachusetts and a leader of the Radical Republicans in the United States Senate during the American Civil War and Reconstruction, working to punish the ex-Confederates and guarantee equal rights to the Freedmen. One of the tunnels between downtown and Logan Airport is named for him.

We walked down the street right by the church, and happened upon the Border Cafe, and stopped in there for lunch. It was, of course, a Mexican restaurant, and it turned out to be quite good. It's picture is at left.

When we were done with lunch, Steve, Mario and Fred went back to the Peabody, and I hung around Harvard Square for a bit before heading back on campus for a walk around Harvard Yard.


Harvard Square is the main shopping area in Cambridge and, of course, gets a huge amount of its business from the students and faculty at the University. In the times I have been here (there used to be a Baskin-Robbins just down the street), it has always been busy. It is a transportation nexus, and there is also a "T" stop here.

One of the legendary businesses on the square is Harvard Coop, which, for many years, was actually a cooperative store run by students for students. Quite some years ago, it outgrew that narrow clientele, and changed its name simply to "COOP." Out in the center of the square is a large newsstand, and if you continue across Mass Ave you are just outside the campus and behind Lehman‑Dudley House. Dudley House is the center at Harvard University for students in the Graduate School of Arts and Sciences and a community of undergraduates, offering intellectual, social, and recreational opportunities to Dudley House members. Activities are planned by and for GSAS students, and they include dinners with faculty members, a classic film series, outings to museums and restaurants, student-run musical ensembles, and athletic and public service opportunities.

There was a gate just around the corner from Lehman-Dudley House, and that's where I came back onto Harvard Yard.

Harvard Yard is a grassy area of about 25 acres that constitutes the oldest part and the center of the campus of Harvard University. Geographically the yard area is bordered by Massachusetts Avenue and Peabody Street, Cambridge Street and Quincy Street. It contains thirteen of Harvard College's seventeen freshman dormitories, as well as four libraries, five buildings of classrooms and academic departments, and the central administrative offices of the Faculty of Arts and Sciences and of the University, located in University Hall and Massachusetts Hall, respectively.

Not being a student here, I really didn't know much about the various buildings I was looking at as I wandered around the campus. Some of them didn't have names that I could see, but I have downloaded a small diagram of Harvard Yard, and I can deduce my route and identify the pictures using that diagram.


The diagram is at left, and I've marked my route on it.

When I came in through the gate, I could see one of the many residence halls here on campus; this one was Matthews Hall. Then I came around in front of Dudley-Lehman Hall. Next to Lehman Hall is Wadsworth House, a canary-yellow building that houses the headquarters of the Harvard Alumni Association and the university library system.

From the front of Dudley-Lehman, I walked around in front of Grays Hall. It opened in 1863 and became Harvard College's first building with water taps in the basement. Residents of other buildings in Harvard Yard had to haul water from pumps in the Yard. Known as "The Harvard Hilton," Grays Hall is currently used as a dormitory housing freshmen and is considered the most luxurious dorm in the Yard. It boasts spacious common rooms, exposed brick walls and an illustrious history. This dorm has a room that houses high-security freshmen. Past residents include author Norman Mailer, actress Natalie Portman and columnist Frank Rich.

From Gray's Hall, I came around in front of Boylston Hall, which houses Harvard's Language Department. Then I walked down the west side of Weld Hall, another dormitory. Built in 1870, past residents included John F. Kennedy, Michael Kinsley, Michael Crichton, Daniel Ellsberg and Ben Bernanke. Ahead of me I could see the west side of University Hall- a white granite building designed by noted early American architect Charles Bulfinch and built between 1813-15. I have searched around, and cannot find what, exactly, is housed in this hall- although it is not on the list of dormitories.

On the west side of University hall is a statue of John Harvard, with the inscription "Founder" on it. Tourists love to have pictures of themselves taken with the statue, whose foot they then rub for good luck. Cognoscenti, however, call it "the statue of three lies." Despite what the plaque on the statue says, Harvard didn't actually found Harvard (the colonial government started the school, then named it after him when he bequeathed his library to it) and the school was started in 1636, not 1638. Even worse, that's not actually John Harvard! Harvard died portraitless, so Daniel Chester French (his other noted sculpture is the Lincoln Memorial) used a friend as a model in 1884. However, French did give the statue skinny legs - because that was one symptom of tuberculosis, which Harvard had.


Widener Memorial Library

After looking at the Harvard statue, I came back south to the front of the Harry Elkins Widener Memorial Library, commonly known as Widener Library. It is the primary building of the library system of Harvard University, and serves as the centerpiece of the 15.6 million-volume Harvard University Library system, the largest university library system in the world. The 320,000-square-foot Beaux-Arts brick building houses 57 miles of bookshelves and 3 million volumes. Among them is one of the few remaining perfect copies of the Gutenberg Bible. The library commemorates Harry Elkins Widener, a 1907 Harvard graduate, who was a book collector and victim of the Titanic disaster.

I walked around the east side of the Widener Library, and from there I could see the rear of Loeb House and the front of the Houghton Library. This library is the primary repository for Harvard's rare books and manuscripts. Collections focus on the study of Western Civilization, particularly European and American history and literature. The collections are especially strong in manuscripts, printing and graphic arts, and theatre history.

From here, I crossed the lawn towards Quincy Street, and turned north to go in front of Loeb House. Constructed in 1912, it was built and donated to the University by Harvard President, A. Lawrence Lowell. He and subsequent Harvard Presidents lived in the house.

During the Second World War, the University relinquished the house to the Navy for its V-12 school training program. During that time, the house was operated much the same as a ship, with a 24-hour watch. Sailors were required to scrub the "deck" (the oak floors) and polish the "brightwork" (the gold mirrors).


Loeb House

In 1971, then Harvard President Derek Bok chose to live at Elmwood, a house off Brattle Street that had previously been the home of deans of the Faculty of Arts and Sciences. Elmwood today continues to serve as the home of Harvard's Presidents. In 1995, the Loeb House was given its name in honor of two of Harvard's long-time benefactors. Since then, the building has housed the offices of Harvard University’s governing boards and is regularly used for their formal meetings. The first floor of the house, including its grand ballroom decorated in the style of the 19th century, is used for a variety of special events.

I continued down Quincy Street to enter the Sever Quadrangle. Bordered on the east by Quincy Street, the other three sides of the quad are bordered by Emerson Hall (south), Sever Hall (west) and Robinson Hall (north). The Harvard University Department of Philosophy resides in Emerson Hall, named for Ralph Waldo Emerson, the Transcendentalist writer, philosopher, and Harvard alumnus (A.B. 1821, LL.D. 1866). Designed by Guy Lowell, and completed in 1900, the building bears over the main entrance the inscription: "What is man that thou art mindful of him?" (Psalm 8:4). Emerson Hall is where most faculty and graduate students have their offices. It is where many of the Department's courses are taught, and where most of its colloquia are held.

Sever Hall was built from 1878 to 1880 with a gift from Anne Sever in honor of her deceased husband, James Warren Sever. It was designed as an academic building with classrooms, lecture halls, rooms for professors, etc., in a style now known as Richardsonian Romanesque- though in red brick rather than stone. It is three stories tall, with a fourth story set within the roof. The main facade (on the west side) features two round bays set symmetrically about an entrance within a deeply recessed semi-circular archway. The east facade is similar but with a simpler, rectangular entrance. The North and south facades are relatively austere expanses punctuated with windows.


Sever Hall (West Facade)

A huge number of bricks- about 1.3 million- were used in its construction. The exterior facades feature 60 different varieties of red molded brick, as well as elaborate brick carvings. The archway admitting entrance into the west facade possesses an acoustical oddity. Whispering directly into the bricks of the archway, while standing very close to one side of the arch, can be heard clearly on the other side of the arch (approximately twelve feet away).

Sever Hall has small classrooms and larger lecture halls, so it is mostly used as a general-purpose classroom building for humanities courses, especially small sections, beginning language courses, and Harvard Extension School classes. The fourth floor of Sever, unnoticed by many of its students as the central stairwell does not lead to it, contains offices for Harvard's Visual and Environmental Studies department. One of Sever's notable annual events is Vericon, run during the break between semesters by the Harvard-Radcliffe Science-Fiction Association.


On the north side of Sever Quadrangle we find Robinson Hall. This building used to be the home of the Graduate School of Design (before it moved to Gund Hall). It is now the home of the Harvard History Department. I thought that the building was noteworthy for the sculptures inset into the wall on either side of the quadrangle entrance, as well as for the copper light fixtures on either side of the stairs. You can have a look at these features by clicking on the thumbnails at right.

I walked through the opening between Robinson Hall and Sever Hall, and then walked along the north side of Memorial Church, between it and Canaday Hall. Canaday Hall, completed in 1974, is the newest dormitory in Harvard Yard, historical home of Harvard College freshmen for their first year in residence upon their initial arrival in Cambridge.


When seen from above, its seven buildings resemble the shape of a question mark. It is named for Ward M. Canaday, former president and major shareholder of the Willys Corporation, manufacturer of Jeeps during World War II.

Canaday's architecture can be traced back to its period of construction, which immediately followed the student takeover of University Hall in 1969. Fearing further student unrest, College administrators fireproofed Canaday and reconfigured it around stairwells to foil student organizing. As such, Canaday Hall grew to resemble most of the other dormitories in Harvard's Old Yard, which are also organized around stairwell entryways accessible to no more than six or eight suites, each connected to the rest of the dormitory building only by an exterior walkway.

On the other hand, residents of Canaday Hall enjoy the shortest average distance to some of the most important buildings on the Harvard campus, including the Science Center, Memorial Hall, Emerson Hall, Sever Hall, and Robinson Hall. I suppose they can walk, but they can also avail themselves of the second most common form of transportation for Harvard students. I continued walking west and came around to the west side and main entrance to Memorial Church.

"In grateful memory of the Harvard men who died in the World War we have built this Church." This is the inscription over the Memorial Room inside the church, which was itself dedicated on Armistice Day 1932 in memory of those who died in World War I, a gift of the alumni to the University. Memorials have been added to remember those who have died in the wars since.

This Church has long been regarded as the symbolic center of Harvard's spiritual life, and stands opposite Widener Library as a visible reminder of the historical and spiritual heritage that has sustained Harvard for nearly four centuries. The first separate building for worship at Harvard University was Holden Chapel, built in 1744. The college soon outgrew the building, which was replaced by a chapel inside Harvard Hall in 1766, then a chapel in University Hall in 1814, and finally by Appleton Chapel, a building dedicated solely to worship sited where The Memorial Church now stands.

When Appleton Chapel was built, morning prayer attendance was compulsory. When it became voluntary in 1886, the College was left with a building that had become too large for morning services and too small for the Sunday services. Then the idea arose to build a new chapel and war memorial together. The architects planned a structure that would complement the imposing edifice of Widener Library, across the broad open area known as the Tercentenary Theatre, where Commencement Exercises are held. Today, the Church is available for the baptisms, weddings, commitment ceremonies, funerals, and memorial services of members of the University and welcomes all visitors.


Lowell Hall

I left the campus via the Kirkland Avenue gate. This put me back at the corner where we'd entered the campus to go to lunch. Opposite me on the corner is Lowell Hall, which is the home of the faculty of the Arts and Sciences of the University. It also contains lecture rooms for those disciplines. Across the street is the Harvard University Science Center.

I walked back to the car to wait for the guys. I have since learned that I was parked right in front of Sparks House. Jared Sparks became Harvard President in 1849. Formerly a popular Professor of Modern History, and even after transferring many onerous tasks to a regent, Sparks did not enjoy his presidential duties. They never left him time enough for historical research. In 1853, unstable health prompted Sparks to resign. But the Sparks years, however brief, had their share of surprises. Sparks’s easygoing ways inspired more students from the South to come to Harvard. At one point, Southerners made up almost a third of the student body.

Shortly after taking office, Sparks received a letter from Sarah Pellet, a young woman who wondered whether she might be admitted to the College. On April 25, 1849, Sparks responded, indicating the practical difficulties of having a solitary woman among so many men. But his final remarks held out brighter hopes: “It may be a misfortune, that an enlightened public opinion has not led to the establishment of Colleges of the higher order for the education of females, and the time may come when their claims will be more justly valued, and when a wider intelligence and a more liberal spirit will provide for this deficiency.” These comments foretold the establishment of Radcliffe and Sarah Lawrence.

Sparks’ name is now most often invoked because of the Harvard structure in front of which I am parked. Instead of moving to Wadsworth House in the Yard, he lived in his own dwelling at 48 Quincy St. The building was moved to 21 Kirkland St. in 1968. Today, Jared Sparks House serves as the residence of the Pusey Minister in the Memorial Church.

I hope you enjoyed walking around Harvard Yard with me. Now let's see what the other guys have been doing in the Peabody Museum.

 

A Visit to the Peabody Museum

After lunch, Steve, Mario and Fred went back to the Peabody Museum. The Peabody, also known as the Harvard Museum, contains a number of interesting collections, and the guys focused on touring three or four of them. I have looked at their pictures, most of which were taken by Fred, and based on those pictures I will just organize the best of them according to the collection or exhibition that they toured.

 

The Glass Flowers

First, you ought to have read of the introductory sign at the entrance to the exhibit of glass flowers:

The only way to become a glass modeler of skill, I have often said to people,
is to get a good great-grandfather who loved glass..."
                                                             Leopold Blaschka, 26 June 1889

Descended from a long line of Bohemian glass artists, Leopold Blaschka and his son Rudolph were gifted with such extraordinary skill and passion for their work that one might argue these attributes were, indeed, "in their blood." Their life-like glass models of marine invertebrates drew international renown and captured the attention of George Lincoln Goodale, the first Director of Harvard's Botanical Museum.


In the Blaschkas, George Goodale discovred both the means and medium (glass) for making detailed scientific models of plants for teaching and museum display. During a visit to their home near Dresden in 1886, he persuaded Leopold and Rudolph to creat a small selection of glass plant models for Harvard. These samples were so superb that Boston resident Elizabeth C. Ware and her daughter Mary Lee Ware offered to finance the creation of entire collection of plant models. In 1890, the Blaschkas signed an exclusive contract with Harvard's Botanical Museum.

Together, Leopold and Rudolph Blaschka made an enormously productive team. They had completed over 76% of the entire Ware Collection of Glass Models of Plants at the time of Leopold's death in 1895. In the nearly four decades to follow, Rudolph produced the remaining models while developing his own colored glasses.

A good example of the Blaschka's artistry is at left. I have taken some of the other pictures we all took of the glass flowers into the slideshow below. To view the slideshow, just click on the image below and I will open the slideshow in a new window. In the slideshow, you can use the little arrows in the lower corners of each image to move from one to the next, and the index numbers in the upper left of each image will tell you where you are in the series. When you are finished looking at the pictures, just close the popup window.

Click on the Image Above to View the Slideshow

 

Stuffed

Click on the Image Above to View the Slideshow

Being a museum of Natural History, you'd expect a lot of the taxidermist's art, and you would not have been disappointed. We took quite a few pictures of these cute stuffed animals, and I have put some of them into a slideshow for you to look at.

To view the slideshow, just click on the image at left and I will open the slideshow in a new window. In the slideshow, you can use the little arrows in the lower corners of each image to move from one to the next, and the index numbers in the upper left of each image will tell you where you are in the series. When you are finished looking at the pictures, just close the popup window.

Being a museum of Natural History, you'd expect a lot of the taxidermist's art, and you would not have been disappointed. Click on the thumbnails below to view the pictures:

 

Skeletons of Their Former Selves

Click on the Image Above to View the Slideshow

Of course, if you've died a long, long time ago, there won't be anything to stuff- but you can still make a great-looking skeleton. There were lots of skeletons all around the museum, and we took quite a few pictures of them, many of which I wanted to include here. So I have put them in a slideshow.

To view the slideshow, just click on the image at left and I will open the slideshow in a new window. In the slideshow, you can use the little arrows in the lower corners of each image to move from one to the next, and the index numbers in the upper left of each image will tell you where you are in the series. When you are finished looking at the pictures, just close the popup window.


Fred made a really good movie of the largest skeleton in the Museum- a whale. You can watch the movie with the player at left.

He also made some still pictures of the whale skeleton, and you can click on the thumbnails below to have a look at them:

 

Rocks and Minerals

Click on the Image Above to View the Slideshow

When I do go to a natural history museum, like I did in Albany, I always like to look at the rocks and minerals, and Fred took some really good pictures of the ones here. I wanted to show you a good selection of them, so instead of a zillion thumbnails for you to click on, here is another slideshow.

To view the slideshow, just click on the image at left and I will open the slideshow in a new window. In the slideshow, you can use the little arrows in the lower corners of each image to move from one to the next, and the index numbers in the upper left of each image will tell you where you are in the series. When you are finished looking at the pictures, just close the popup window.

 

The Moche: Dazzling Displays, Painted to Impress

In the last area where Fred took pictures, he walked through an exhibit devoted to Meso-American civilizations, and especially to Moche Murals.

Click on the Image Above to View the Slideshow

These murals, which people rarely see, were painted at large scales in bright, vivid colors that were visible from afar. In small interior chambers, imagery was repetitive and abstract, so that walls served as decorative backdrops. In temple courtyards, ritual activities, files of warriors or priests, and other elite activities were depicted. The most elaborate murals were placed on the front terraces of huacas and included larger-than-life representations of deities and mythic heroes. The figures portrayed on the front terraces of Huaca de la Luna and Huaca Cao Viejo are powerful beings such as mythical spiders and cosmic fishermen.

We took a lot of good pictures in this exhibit, and I have put the best of them in a slideshow.

To view the slideshow, just click on the image at left and I will open the slideshow in a new window. In the slideshow, you can use the little arrows in the lower corners of each image to move from one to the next, and the index numbers in the upper left of each image will tell you where you are in the series. When you are finished looking at the pictures, just close the popup window.

With those pictures, Fred, Steve and Mario were done at the Peabody, and they rejoined me at the car where I had been waiting for them after my walk through Harvard Yard.  

Our Trip Home

When we were all back at the car, we hooked up the GPS to get us back to Logan Airport and the Enterprise Rent-a-Car lot there. We made the trip easily and quickly, turned in the car, and were in the terminal going through security in plenty of time for our flight through Atlanta back to Dallas.

We didn't have to run from gate to gate like we did in Atlanta on the way up, so we took advantage of the time we had to have dinner at the Chili's restaurant right there in our Atlanta terminal. Then we boarded our flight back to Dallas. There, we got the shuttle back to the Days Inn, picked up Fred's car, and were on our way home.

It was a really good trip, and we did quite a lot. Steve got six more capitols added to his list, and we all had fun at the other locations we visited- the Newport Homes, Provincetown, our walk through Albany, Mount Washington, the Flume and the Freedom Walk in Boston. Quite a lot in seven days.

You can use the links below to either go back to the previous day of our New England trip or return to the main index for the trip to continue on through the photo album.


September 30, 2011: Boston State House and Freedom Trail
Return to the Index for our New England Trip